New beauty regime treat your looks AND how you feel

A new range for blemish-prone ‘stressed’ skin has been launched to much fanfare. LP Skin Therapy claims to tackle the effects of stress on our faces and our brains. Sounds unlikely, doesn’t it? How on earth, you may ask, could a pot of face cream or an eye serum make you feel — and look — less stressed? According to its creator, psychologist Dr Linda Papadopoulos, ‘psychodermatology’ is the answer: treating skin problems using psychological techniques, based on the idea that the mind and body interact and have an effect on the progression of skin disorders. Dr Papadopoulos has been researching psychodermatology since 1995, when she began her doctoral thesis. ‘My interest was in response to my cousin’s experience of vitiligo (a condition that causes uneven pigmentation on the skin) and how it affected her socially.’ She says: ‘Bad skin creates a downwards spiral. We’ve thought for years that misery or stress can make your skin look grey and drained, whereas happiness makes you glow — and we now know that this is chemically correct. ‘Diseased or poor skin can make you depressed, which causes the brain to release stress chemicals such as cortisol. In excess, this causes collagen loss in skin and therefore makes it look even worse.’ This makes sense: if we’re feeling down, the chances are it will show on our face, which may be pallid or prone to flare-ups. But how can a skin cream tackle these kinds of emotional issue? Dr Papadopoulos’s secret weapon is a set of active ingredients called nootropics, generally known as being cognitive enhancers — or smart drugs — which improve mental functions such as memory, intelligence and concentration. The chemists Dr Papadopoulos has been working with claim to have discovered that some of these chemicals may improve mood and reduce stress when applied to the skin. One — Periwinkle extract — has been available as a supplement for years, either under the name of the flower or called vinpocetine, which, taken orally, may help to increase blood flow to the brain and concentration. In topical form, the creams are said to boost cell oxygenation and reproduction which promotes a more glowing complexion, as well as having the capacity to increase endorphin production — the hormones which make you feel happy —and reduce cortisol levels. The range contains eight products including a night cream, a facial spray and a lip treatment. Each contains age-combating peptides as well as other elements which claim to combat psychological issues. For example, the night cream contains an oil naturally rich in vitamin D (thought to help alleviate the symptoms of SAD). The products start at £15 and the most expensive is £40. Scientific opinion is divided on the products. Clinical pharmacologist Professor Pradeep Nathan, of Cambridge University, says that while these nootropics may deliver psychological results when taken orally, more tests are needed to prove the chemicals reach the brain when put on the skin and provide demonstrable improvements in mood or cognitive function. ‘Even if the active constituents enter the circulatory system,’ he says, ‘it’s unlikely the low concentrations of topical application will alter brain function.’ But others are more positive: ‘I find this range exciting and the science behind it is solid,’ says dermatologist Dr Mario Luca Russo. ‘No one has viewed the role of skincare from this point of view before.’ Clinical trials have been positive so far.  Dr Russo believes the active ingredients could also reach the brain through breathing and smelling. ‘The act of massaging in cream will also send positive messages to the brain,’ he says. I’ve been using the range for the past fortnight and my skin is smoother and less exhausted looking. To my surprise, I’ve also slept more soundly and felt relaxed in spite of a raft of tight deadlines and the demands of my three children.