Skiing in Switzerland: A snowy singalong

Watching the sun go down while sitting on top of a mountain and singing along to a live accordion rendition of 'aye aye yippee yippee aye' was one of the least expected highlights of a recent trip to St Moritz. Switzerland's most famous resort is best known for attracting mega-wealthy and A-list visitors - and swathing them in luxury. But there I was, sitting on a freezing mountain swathed in a decidedly less-than-luxurious blanket - and having a ball. The resort owes its fame to four intrepid Britons who took on a wager in 1864. Hotelier Johannes Badrutt bet his four summer guests that if they returned when St Moritz was covered in snow, they would still have a great time. They accepted his wager, and enjoyed their winter of snow and ice sports so much that they stayed until Easter. Winter sports tourism was born. Today, from a sundeck at the Romantik Hotel Muottas Muragl, at 8,058ft, the views along the Upper Engadine valley, with its lakes and alpine villages, are breathtaking. As we waited for the glow of twilight to illuminate the mountains, our assembly of strangers welcomed the arrival of an eccentric-looking Swiss-German lady and her accordion. Blankets, mulled wine and a hearty singalong helped us brave the cold as the sun gracefully slipped away, leaving us to enjoy a sumptuous meal and a wonderfully silent night's sleep. There are no ski lifts on this protected mountain and no piste machines working through the night, no ambient noise or light. And the tranquillity of the basic but reasonably priced Hotel Muottas Muragl, which generates its own power and water, delivered a welcome contrast to the palatial hotels St Moritz is famed for. I first stayed at one of these, the Carlton Hotel, many years ago, before its recent refurbishment, which transformed 105 rooms into 60 impressive five-star suites. The Carlton enjoys a commanding view over the lake of St Moritz and, from my balcony on my return visit, the scene was one of pure calm - people walking and playing on the smooth snowy surface and a few cross-country skiers. And while I marvelled at the scenery, my girlfriend took full advantage of the 13,000sq ft pool and spa. Of course, the real stars of St Moritz are the four lift-served mountains: Corvatsch reaching 10,837ft, Corviglia 10,030ft, Diavolezza 10,059ft, and the smaller area of Pizzet reaching 8,087ft. Between them, they deliver 217 miles of prepared downhill slopes, a mass of woefully underrated off-piste possibilities, 124 miles of cross-country trails and 93 miles of winter walking paths. My favourite is Diavolezza, mainly because it is quieter but also for the superb off-piste descent to the tip of the Morteratsch glacier. I took the train to Morteratsch to enjoy the mile-long walk to the glacier. Along the way, signposts mark where the ice used to reach, telling the sad tale of its recession. Diavolezza is the mountain mostly skied by those staying in the charming, quiet village of Pontresina about five miles from the pizzazz of St Moritz. I spent a couple of nights here in the historic Grand Hotel Kronenhof, where, like the Carlton, the rooms have been upgraded with a pleasing blend of contemporary and antique styles. There are many delightful restaurants both on and off the mountain in St Moritz. For example, the Western-style La Baracca in St Moritz itself encourages complete strangers to dine and mingle, whatever their class, while up in the mountains El Paradiso lives up to its elevated boast 'close to Heaven'. Which neatly sums up the whole of St Moritz.