Franklin-Gordon Wild Rivers cruising

Being alone in a rainforest wilderness makes you privy to rather strange observations. Occasional bird cries resonate louder than a police siren's wail and should the rest of the world implode, in this part of Tasmania it might pass by unnoticed. Eagles rule this world heritage wilderness and may not care much for cataclysms, while in a kayak every stroke on the Gordon River can whisk you further from everyday trifling. The Franklin-Gordon Wild Rivers National Park is a wilderness of breathtaking scale, yet a trip on the Gordon River does not have to be about Indiana Jones-style crusades. The luxurious ship Discovery has been purpose-built to take passengers into this remnant of ancient Gondwana. The ship comes with accoutrements, including kayaks, to help with exploration. Discovery's engines shut down for the kayak experience and away from the mother ship, immersion in this profound wilderness seems complete. There are banks with platypus, spectacularly ancient trees, the river's unnerving silence and thankfully, little else. Encounters with other tours are extremely rare. Discovery departs from the village of Strahan on Tasmania's rugged west coast. Despite being the gatekeeper to a wilderness that spreads over 400,000 hectares, prosperous Strahan retains the air of a fishing village. Nestled by the vast Macquarie Harbour, a body of water larger than Sydney Harbour, it has only around 1000 people living along its shores. On the second day of the two-night cruise, Discovery purrs toward the confluence of the Gordon and Franklin rivers before U-turning for Birch's Inlet. Here zodiacs sneak passengers beyond the inlet into a trickling creek toward a sweeping plain of button grass — in such contrast to the rainforest immersion that you feel your senses stirred as if struck by lightening. The zodiacs put into a part of the Southwest Conservation Area near where the orange-bellied parrot nests. This parrot is in the same threatened species category as the Siberian tiger and is one of the world's rarest birds. During the summer breeding season there is a permanent bird-watching hide here, staffed by volunteers. The attentive crew from Discovery equip passengers with binoculars. Later the ship docks at once-notorious Sarah Island, near the middle of Macquarie Harbour. The word 'island' comes with connotations of paradise but Sarah Island was once the most hellish convict confine. After a guided tour of the island, Discovery ventures to Hell's Gate, the narrow and notorious body of water where the harbour opens to the mighty Southern Ocean. The 33-metre Discovery was launched in December 2004. With just 12 rooms it accommodates a maximum of 24 people in the eight queen rooms and four twin cabins. There are gourmet meals featuring the best of Tasmanian produce, a bar, lounge and a library on the second deck. A barbecue and sun deck are on the third level. The crew includes two chefs, a nature guide as well as a cruise coordinator. Australia's former Deputy Prime Minister Tim Fisher described this wilderness as "one of the key World Heritage areas in the world". The combination of adventure and indulgence can make it seem as if this journey lasts far longer than two days. Just don't forget to sit in your cabin where one sheer glass wall becomes wallpapered with rainforest: it's the perfect place to contemplate the mellifluous sounds of nothing. Discovery departs from Strahan on Tasmania's west coast at 4pm every Monday, Wednesday and alternate Saturday. All meals, guided activities and onboard entertainment are included. From $1995 per person.