Kashgar, the other face of China

The lady sitting next to me gripped the sides of her seat, shut her eyes and started mumbling some prayers as the plane rocked from side to side. Elsewhere in the cabin, people started screaming. Not exactly the prospect I had in mind when I booked my flight from Urumqi to Kashgar in China's remote western province of Xinjiang. A turbulent journey The day had started promisingly enough. Fresh snow had just fallen on Urumqi, giving the industrial-looking city a fairytale sheen. But the first hint of trouble came when I arrived at the airport at 7 am. The flight to Kashgar had been postponed to an indefinite time due to strong winds. Given that the alternative was a 25 hour train journey, I had little choice but to wait. It was a relief when the ground crew finally announced that the first flight to Kashgar would take off at 2 pm. Somehow, amidst the mad scramble, I managed to get a coveted seat. But I had rejoiced too early. After an aborted attempt to land, since the plane started swaying and plunging on its descent to Kashgar, the pilot announced that he was returning to Urumqi - a two hour flight away. By the time I finally arrived in Kashgar after the pilot made yet another attempt to fly there after he arrived in Urumqi, it was already 9 pm. I was exhausted, bedraggled and grouchy. Not the perfect mood to start a holiday. But as I caught the first glimpse of the mythical oasis city of Kashgar and parts of its 500-year-old city wall, my excitement returned. Are we still in China? Kashgar, whose very name evokes exoticism and adventure, was an important trading city during the days of the Silk Road and continues to be one even today. Being closer to Bishkek and Almaty than Beijing, the city is seen as China's gateway to Central Asia, and this proximity gives the city a distinctive Central Asian flavour. In fact, if not for the Chinese characters on signboards and road signs, it doesn't even feel like China. Uyghur bazaars, tea houses and faces dominate the streets. And many of the women are veiled. However, since the deadly ethnic clashes in several areas of Xinjiang in 2009, Kashgar has been put under heavy police surveillance. It is after all the Uyghur's heartland. But while some residents told me that there was still some animosity between the Uyghurs and the Han Chinese, it won't hinder you from exploring the city. Nor will it stop you from interacting with the city's hospitable people - one of whom even volunteered to send a Uyghur song to my mobile via Bluetooth when I asked him about the song he was listening to. A changing landscape However, Kashgar will not remain the way it is for much longer. Though its Old Town has been hailed as the bestpreserved example of a traditional Islamic city to be found anywhere in Central Asia, the Chinese authorities have started tearing down huge chunks of it. By some estimates, some 85 per cent of the structures within the Old Town will be razed eventually. And the reasons cited for doing so are that many of the buildings are vulnerable to collapse in a seismic event. Some question, however, if other motives may be at play as the area is at the heart of the Uyghur culture. Regardless of the reasons, the move is lamentable as the demolition works, once completed, cannot be reversed. For now, most of the remaining parts of the Old Town, with its labyrinthine alleys and mud-and-straw houses are on both sides of Jiefang (Liberation) Road. Here, one can still catch a glimpse of how Kashgar used to be. On one street corner, there'll be coppersmiths hammering away on their bowls, pans and jugs, while on another, women in their headscarves are haggling over the cuts of mutton hanging on meat hooks. And every once in a while, donkey cart drivers can also be heard shouting the warning Posh! Posh! as they navigate the narrow streets. The friendly locals It was in one of the side streets of the Old Town that I came across an amicable middle-aged Uyghur woman who invited me into her house for tea. She had seen me snapping pictures of the ochre-coloured alleys and archways outside her house in the biting winter chill. It was a pity we could not communicate as there were many questions I would've asked her. What are her thoughts on the destruction of the Old Town? How does she feel about the ethnic clashes? From her house, I headed to the magnificent yellow-tiled Id Kah Mosque which lies at the heart of the existing Old Town. Built in the 15th century, the mosque is one of the largest in Central Asia. Every Friday, it houses nearly 10,000 worshippers, and on special occasions, it can accommodate up to 20,000 people. Non-Muslims are allowed to enter outside of prayer times, offering a peek into its unique Islamic architecture infused with Uyghur elements. The serenity of its inner courtyard with its majestic poplar trees and ponds provides a refuge from the bustle outside. The inimitable sunday market I later plunged headlong into the madness that is Kashgar's Sunday Market. It is said that Kashgar's population swells by 50,000 every Sunday as people all over Central Asia stream in to the market, which sells almost everything under the sun - from exquisite carpets to traditional Uyghur daggers to modern appliances. I could've spent hours exploring this fascinating market which is at its peak on Sundays. Equally interesting is the Livestock Market which lies southeast of the city. It was abuzz with buyers and sellers from all across Central Asia. Add to that, a mix of thousands of bleating sheep, dozens of cattle and camels, the aroma of cooked meat wafting across from the nearby makeshift food stalls and the swirling clouds of ochre-colored dust. It's as if I was transported back to the days of yore. But for how long will this Old World charm endure? For the longest time, its remoteness has sealed it from the big changes sweeping across China. Perhaps its time is up. Perhaps the wave of modernity will render it unrecognisable five years from now. I hope I'm being overly pessimistic. Costs The cost of living in Kashgar is much lower than in the wealthier eastern provinces of China. You should be able to live comfortably on US$50 a day. Take note, however, that prices are often negotiable so be prepared to bargain hard, though in a good-natured manner. Best time to visit With A relatively short winter and a long cool summer, temperatures in Kashgar are pleasant most of the year. The coldest month is January (average temperature of -6 °C), while the hottest month is in July (average temperature of 27 °C). The best time to travel is between May and October, but do time your visit to coincide with the livestock market on Sundays.