Nakhon Si Thammarat is a place for all seasons

Mention Nakhon Si Thammarat and the image of the province's most revered Phra Borommathat pagoda would pop up in the mind of many Thais. That, perhaps, is followed by the famous sat duen sip ceremony, the grand event in which locals gather to make merit for their deceased relatives; nang talung shadow puppets; manorah folk performance and many more. Some might even think of the playful yet decisive sound of the people's southern dialect, or feel one's appetite whetted by the thought of khanom jeen, the soft rice noodle, topped with different types of tasty southern-styled sauces and served with a variety of indigenous vegetables. But with over 225km of coastline on the west side of the Gulf of Thailand, Nakhon Si Thammarat, also known in short as Nakhon or Muang Khon, has much more to be proud of than the above historical and cultural heritages. A visit to Pak Phanang and Khanom, two of Nakhon Si Thammarat's six coastal districts, will make you see this southern province in a new light. And even though these two places are just a few hours' drive apart, they are very different from each other, reflecting the diverse experiences that Muang Khon has to offer to its visitors. Let's begin with Pak Phanang, the charming town with its namesake river running through it from the south, before finally draining into the sea further north. Situated about 35km slightly southeast of the provincial capital, Pak Phanang has undergone many ups and downs over the past centuries. When Nakhon Si Thammarat was still a vassal state of Ayutthaya and later Bangkok during the early reigns of the Chakri Dynasty, Pak Phanang was a bustling port town, a gateway for maritime trade between Muang Khon and foreign lands such as China and faraway Europe. The most important export item was rice, which was grown in abundance in the fertile river basin. However, that changed after World War II when Bangkok became the only centre for rice export. At the same time, years of deforestation took its toll. The badly damaged forests could no longer provide the Pak Phanang River with a constant supply of fresh water, as a result, sea water managed to force its way deeper inland ruining the soil that was once perfect for paddies. With the rice trade dying, Pak Phanang townspeople resorted to commercial fishing. Ships were converted into trawlers and before long the port town boasted some of the South's largest fishing fleets. However, the new economic boom lasted only about a decade-and-a-half. When the world was struck by the oil crisis of 1973, many fishing operations here were forced to quit, thus the end of another era. But the people continued their struggles against fate, and shrimp farming was their new-found solution. No doubt, the rapid spread of shrimp farm ventures brought wealth to some people and debts to others. The chemical-intensive farming also produced huge amounts of waste water that severely contaminated the river basin. In the early 90s, the future for the people of Pak Phanang seemed doomed. But once again, it turned out they survived another serious downturn; this time thanks to the helping hand of His Majesty the King who initiated the Pak Phanang River Basin Royal Development Project which gradually restored the environment as well as the livelihood of the locals. Today, the town's economy is on the rise. And it's rising even higher with extra help from a particular species of bird. Of course, you'll find out how the royal development project and the birds brought Pak Phanang back to life as you read on. But for now let's not forget that we also have another destination to visit: Khanom. Despite the fact that it is adjacent to Surat Thani's Don Sak district, where the pier for ferries to the popular Koh Samui is located, Khanom's beaches remain unspoilt by mass tourism. The sea off this northernmost coastal district of Nakhon Si Thammarat is not just peaceful and gorgeous on the surface. Under water it maintains a healthy ecosystem with different types of habitats including mangroves and extensive beds of sea grass which are home to a variety of fish and other marine creatures. However, the stars of Khanom's sea are mammals, the so-called ''pink dolphins''. Known scientifically as Sousa chinensis, the Indo-Pacific humpback dolphins sport a skin colour that turns from grey to pinkish white as they grow older, which is why Thais called them loma si chomphu, i.e. pink dolphins. Actually, the pink dolphins are not the only species of dolphin found in Khanom's waters but they are kind of a sure bet. These cute marine mammals tend to hang around at certain areas and the local boatmen seem to know full well when and where to find them. So unless you're really unlucky, you're unlikely to miss them. By now you probably have some idea about the difference between Khanom and Pak Phanang. But from my experience there is definitely one thing that the two districts share with other parts of Nakhon Si Thammarat: friendly people. To me, the first image that springs up at the mention of Nakhon Si Thammarat is still its grand pagoda, followed by the locals' smiling faces, near pristine beaches, the pink dolphin, lives along Pak Phanang River, local dishes and seafood...the list can go on and on.