Samothraki: mysteriously alluring through the ages

It is widely said that Samothraki, in the northern Aegean, is a mysterious island, one that works some kind of magic on its visitors. This is especially true on a summer night with a full moon rising over the top of the imposing Mount Saos, which has been nicknamed “Fengari” (moon) by locals. The allure of Samothraki -- also known as Samothrace -- dates back to antiquity, when people would travel from far and wide to attend the rituals of the Cabeiri Mysteries, which were similar to the better-known Eleusinian Mysteries, as far back as the 3rd century BC. These were held at the Sanctuary of the Great Gods, the names of whom it was forbidden to utter and so they were collectively known as the Cabeiri. While it is thought that the Cabeiri Mysteries were more focused on the concept of life rather than death, it is also said that the Chthonic religious practices inspired fear because the punishments imposed by the Great Gods were often brutal. Free men and slaves who became initiated to the Mysteries apparently acquired supernatural powers that allowed them to elude dangers, succeed in the most daring endeavors and vanquish their enemies. The only known initiate was the historian Herodotus, who also provides the only testimony to the elusive Mysteries. However, according to some sources, Samothraki was where the parents of Alexander the Great, Philip II and Olympias, first met and where he was conceived. Today, the island is largely known around the world due to the fact that the Winged Victory (or Nike) of Samothrace was discovered there in 1863. The marvelous sculpture now occupies a prominent position at the Louvre in Paris, where it is viewed by millions of visitors every year. There is a very good replica of the winged goddess on the island at Palaiochori. The name Samothraki, meanwhile, derives from the ancient Greek word for tall (“samos”) and the name of the region to which it belongs, Thrace (“Thraki” in Greek). As the name suggests, this is an island of peaks and vistas, known more for its dense vegetation and springs than its beaches. With Mount Saos standing at 1,611 meters, Samothraki is the third-tallest island in Greece, after Crete and Evia. It goes without saying that a tour of the island should include a walk on Mount Saos. The most striking route is along the Fonias River, which forms a succession of small, yet freezing cold, bathing pools on its way down and is very popular with free campers -- the river’s name, which means killer, is no concidence as heavy rainfall causes its waters to swell considerably every spring. Hikers are advised not to venture too high up the mountain without a guide or as part of a group as the paths can be quite treacherous. At Gria Vathra, there is a lovely bathing pool that is popular with tourists because it is easy to get to. This is located in an area known as Therma, which also has hot springs that have been developed and are open to the public. Palaiohori, located on a plateau, is the site of the island’s most significant antiquities. Below it is a fishing village called Kamariotissa, which, while not particularly picturesque, is the liveliest part of the island, especially at night, as it has a few tavernas, cafes and bars. The official capital of the island, Hora, is located some 7-8 kilometers from Kamariotissa. Built on a mountain slope, it is the island’s architectural jewel, with a number of well-renovated stone houses, pretty shops and cobblestone alleyways, where visitors can find a host of cafes and tavernas. Further east, there are a number of small villages off the main road, including Profitis Ilias, whose tavernas serve one of the island’s specialities, spit-roasted goat. While bathing is not among the island’s big highlights, there are numerous pebble beaches and just one sandy beach, Pachia Ammos (or Fat Sand), which has very clean waters, a few sun loungers and umbrellas, and plenty of space. The downside of Samothraki is that it is not very easy to get to from Athens as it means traveling 850 kilometers to Alexandroupoli by car, train or bus, and then taking a ferry. Alternatively, you can fly to Alexandroupoli from Athens and shave some precious time off the journey. For information on ferry schedules, call the Samothraki Port Authority at 25510.41305. From/ekathimerini