A lighter, lovelier garlic

I first encountered green garlic one summer in Provence. I was working on a garlic cookbook, so I bought lots of it every time I went to the market. But one day in June I came across an unfamiliar variety. The generous cloves — enrobed in several layers of soft, moist, pinkish skin — were almost juicy, and their flavor was less pungent than that of regular garlic. This was green garlic, freshly harvested. By now it should be available at most farmers’ markets. At some stands, the bulbs look a lot like spring onions, or even leeks, because they haven’t set cloves yet. Once the cloves appear, the garlic looks more familiar; still, the green stems will be attached, and you must remove several layers of moist skin to get to the cloves. The season doesn’t last long, so I buy green garlic every week and use it in all manner of dishes. Because it’s milder than mature garlic, you can use a lot without overpowering a dish. Many researchers believe garlic, green or mature, may help lower cholesterol, triglyceride levels and blood pressure. Some of its constituents, including allicin, vitamin C, vitamin B6, manganese and selenium, may provide cardiovascular benefits. Some people are so enthusiastic about these therapeutic properties that they take garlic supplements. It’s hardly necessary; it’s easy to get all you want in everyday dishes. Green Garlic, Potato and Leek Soup A very pale green springtime cousin of vichyssoise, this purée is comforting when served hot, refreshing when cold. 3/4 pound green garlic (weight includes stalks) 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 1 pound leeks, white and light green parts only, rinsed thoroughly and sliced 1 small celery rib, sliced (about 1/4 cup) Salt to taste 1 pound Yukon gold or russet potatoes, peeled and diced 1 1/2 quarts water, vegetable stock or chicken stock A bouquet garni made with a bay leaf and 2 sprigs each thyme and parsley Freshly ground pepper 1/4 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, chervil or tarragon 1. Trim off the tough green ends of the garlic bulbs. If the garlic has formed cloves, separate them and remove the thick shells from the tender cloves. If it has not formed cloves, just remove the outside layers. Chop coarsely. You should have about 1 cup chopped green garlic. 2. Heat the olive oil in a large, heavy soup pot over medium heat. Add the leeks, green garlic, celery and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Cook gently for five to 10 minutes until the vegetables have softened but not colored. Add the potatoes, water, bouquet garni and salt to taste. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, cover and simmer 30 minutes. 3. Purée the soup using an immersion blender. Alternatively, purée in a standing blender working in 1 1/2-cup batches; pull a towel tightly over the top, rather than a tight-fitting lid, to prevent splashes. Put through a medium strainer, pressing the soup through with the back of a ladle or with a pestle. Reheat, taste and adjust salt. Add freshly ground pepper. Ladle into soup bowls, and sprinkle chopped fresh parsley, chervil or chopped fresh tarragon over each serving. Alternatively, chill and serve cold. You can thin out if you wish with milk or stock. Yield: Serves six. Advance preparation: You can make this a day ahead and reheat. You may want to thin the soup with a little milk or stock. Nutritional information per serving: 135 calories; 1 gram saturated fat; 1 gram polyunsaturated fat; 3 grams monounsaturated fat; 0 milligrams cholesterol; 21 grams carbohydrates; 4 grams dietary fiber; 45 milligrams sodium (does not include salt to taste); 2 grams protein