Eat out: Nature calls at The Farm

The Farm, a restaurant at the heart of the lush Al Barari development just off Emirates Road, had already won me over with its design, location and atmosphere. But could the food live up to that? As I turned my car into the green tunnel that is the entrance to Al Barari, I was transported away from dusty Dubai and into a subtropical world. The restaurant itself is beautifully light, bright and contemporary, with a terrace at the back overlooking a pond where dragonflies flit about and water features trickle. Somehow, it's all done in a way that feels natural, not imported. So it's a great space to spend a lazy lunch with the girls or a romantic dinner. But there are plenty of restaurants in Dubai that promise a great location and design where the food falls flat (such as a consistently disappointing cafe on Jumeirah Beach Road). Does the Farm suffer from the same? Thankfully, not at all. The food is fresh, innovative and very well prepared — although, unsurprising from a luxury residential development, comes with a price tag to match. The ingredients aim as far as possible to be organic (making the most of produce grown on site or in the UAE) and ethically sourced, meaning the person who picked the coffee beans in that latte was paid fairly for their labour. That's why the menu is on an iPad, the restaurant says — so changes can be easily made to it if, say, artichoke is not available. That would be a shame, because the artichoke and leek soup (Dh30) is a fresh revelation and a wonderful way to start your meal. It's creamy but light, tangy and feels like a bowlful of goodness. Team it with the fantastic home-baked breads — a selection of them come to the table with fruity olive oil for dipping (loaves are also available to buy in the small shop inside). Another starter of giant grilled prawns with mango was perfectly cooked, if a little small for the money. You won't leave hungry if you have a starter and main, with side dishes, though; you'll feel quite light, although your wallet may do too, especially if you add on the juice drinks such as Passion Breeze (Dh20). The menu lists main courses by main ingredient, so there are confusingly two items with organic chicken — one that lists it cooked with lemon and rosemary, and other simply titled "organic chicken". It was unclear how it was cooked, except that it came with sweet potato. So we ordered both, and found it was a supreme of chicken — breast with a little bit of wing attached. While it was juicy, if you're not a fan of chicken breast you'll have major envy of those with the lemony grilled thigh (Dh80). We added on a mixed salad (Dh30), a large bowl enough for three to share, and red potatoes roasted with more artichokes (Dh28). Desserts, like all the items on the menu, are home-made from scratch. The brownie wasn't cooked enough for us — I expect a crisp top and chewiness rather than dense chocolate, but chocoholics would likely adore it. I'd have the cheesecake again, though. I'd also definitely go back, if only to see how the terrace is going to be summer-proofed — I was told it will be cooled. But the interior is just as pleasant a place to eat, and there are lots more items to try — ribeye steaks, plenty of vegetarian options, and a curry and a pasta of the day. For early risers, there are breakfast options, and the spelt pancakes are a don't miss. THE FARM Where: Al Barari, Emirates Road. Call 04-3744544 Atmosphere: A new hotspot for Dubai foodies, Jumeirah Janes and healthy-eating mums Decor: Gentle, feminine modernity — surrounded by gardens. Must-haves: Artichoke and leek soup, lemon and rosemary grilled chicken thigh, cheesecake