Melbourne: Where the locals dine

Melbourne is certainly no slouch when it comes to "big night out" restaurants. But locals love the city's current crop of places that loosen up the strict fine-dining format. Cicciolina (130 Acland St, St Kilda, phone 03 9525 3333) No bay views but plenty of relaxed style and honest, hearty Euro-inspired dishes make this a perennial St Kilda favourite. There's a no-bookings policy and often a queue, but the wait in the back bar is all part of the fun. St Ali Nights Once upon a time a humble coffee roaster, now a fully-fledged institution. This South Melbourne warehouse café (tucked, of course, down an alley) now does dinner with a wonderful Mod Oz, Asian-leaning menu from Wednesday to Saturday. Cumulus Inc There's no better way to start the day than with an espresso and gingerbread at this bright Flinders Lane warehouse, and you could theoretically hole up here right through to supper. Andrew McConnel's food is both clever and comforting; charcuterie plates and colourful salads join signature dishes such as foam topped cup o' soups, deconstructed pig's ear and a 'pour your own' rum baba. Borsch, Vodka & Tears This long time favourite is cosy and unpretentious, and proof that Chapel Street still has a bohemian side. Apart from one of Melbourne's most formidable selections of vodka, there's a menu of hearty straight-outta-Kraków dishes like mushroom pierogi (dumplings), goulash and sausage stew. Gerald's Bar (386 Rathdowne St, North Carlton, phone 03 9349 4748) Gerald cooks up whatever he feels like on the day — maybe goat curry, grilled sardines or a nice cut of rib-eye — and spins classic vinyl behind the bar. Tucked away in residential North Carlton, this is your quintessential neighbourhood hangout. Journal Canteen (Mezzanine, 253 Flinders Lane, phone 03 9650 4399) If you can nab a table, feast on the city's best antipasto, then choose between the Sicilian-style daily pasta or meat special. Freedom from choice, Italian wines by the glass, and the laneway hubbub view are bonuses. Lunch and Friday night dinner only. Mamasita Mod Mexican dining was a long time coming to Melbourne and the nightly queues to this Collins Street hideaway show just how well Mama delivers. It's a lovely, if boisterous, upstairs setting and the dishes are authentic, fresh and creative. Bar Lourinhã No wan tortilla at this intimate, amiable laneway joint. Authentic Iberian and Southern Mediterranean dishes can be matched with Portuguese, Spanish and Italian wines. Moorish-accented desserts usually call for more than one spoon — everyone will want what you're having. Hutong Dumpling Bar Dumplings are made fresh inhouse, and the menu includes Northern and Shanghai varieties; has possibly replaced the fryup as Melbourne's favourite hangover cure. Also in Prahran. Gigibaba (102 Smith st, Collingwood, phone 03 94860345) Join the crew of bearded and bespectacled locals come here for a meze-style changing menu of Mod Turkish that's as seriously good as the queues suggest. Wines can be had by the glass, the carafe or bottle and the space is whimsical and welcoming.