Terrace Grill & Bar, Le Méridien Piccadilly

Opened earlier this month, the new Terrace Grill & Bar replaces the Terrace at Le Méridien Piccadilly, bringing robust British fare to a discerning, business-oriented clientele in the heart of London. Entering through the gracious Le Méridien lobby, just moments from the twinkling lights of the West End, we are whisked up to the second floor to our table. Service is polite, discreet and informed – just as you would expect from a property of this standing. The restaurant is split into two floors, with the gin lounge on the upper level and the grill concept down below. We are seated on the lower level, draped in mood lighting, and with a fantastic view over Piccadilly. Contemporary décor - designed by Anita Rosato - gives the place a clinical, sophisticated air; it is heavy on the British influence, but with a European elegance. Most striking is the air of calm. Outside the world bustles along one of London’s main thoroughfares, just as it has for hundreds of years, but inside the atmosphere is relaxed. The redesigned menu, launched earlier this month, focuses on British meat, game, poultry and fish. In the hands of chef de cuisine, Michael Dutnall, these ingredients are imbued with a hearty, nourishing character; with the Red Poll beef and whole roast Packington chicken among the highlights on offer. My guest selects slow-cooked duck leg to start, followed by steamed seabass with mussels, while I opt for the chilli battered squid citrus salsa and, inevitably, the Longhorn beef t-bone. Service is prompt, while the dishes all deliver. The steak is lusciously tender and succulent, although just a little past rare, while reports of the seabass are equally glowing. Considered an emerging young talent in the culinary world, Dutnall has all the skills to be a star in London. Arctic roll and a Knickerbocker glory follow for desert, further demonstrating the chef’s commitment to serving genuine British cooking. Although, I do wonder quite what overseas visitors might make of bread & butter pudding or sherry trifle! Retreating to the upper lounge level, our bartender prepares a snappy Citadelle gin-tonic - a delightful digestif. Only just opened, the Terrace Grill & Bar it set to become the destination of choice for savvy business travellers staying at Le Méridien Piccadilly and in-the-know shoppers ducking in for a relaxing gin break.