Clothes for a Queen

Mrs Burton's latest offering shows more of her own   London - Arabstoday   From her first solo collection to Kate Middleton's wedding gown, Sarah Burton has more than proved herself as a successor to her late mentor's namesake label. And today was no different as the designer showed her latest collection for Alexander McQueen at Paris Fashion Week. Though her most famous fan, the Duchess of Cambridge, was not present for the show, there were plenty of VIP names in attendance. Salma Hayek, Rachel Zoe and Anna Wintour all lined the front row, as did Anna Dello Russo, Jefferson Hack and Emanuelle Alt. But all eyes were on the catwalk for a collection that, like the past two without McQueen himself at the helm, paid tribute to all the hallmarks that made the label what it is.   Structured shoulders with tall collars creeping up the neck, demure yet plunging necklines and those teeny-tiny waists were all evidence of the time Mrs Burton spent at McQueen's side. But to simply echo McQueen would not be moving forward, and Mrs Burton's spring/summer 2012 offering shows more of her own, softer, more feminine influence than ever before. Alongside the crow-like black ruffles and gleaming gold and silver were the softest blush pinks ascending into vibrant corals for the eveningwear. Fabrics, too, seemed light as air, giving new life to the structured ruffles in skirts and hemlines.   But it was the most Kate-friendly designs that really stole the show. Oh, how we would love to see the Duchess in the scoop-neck gold dress, with its fitted, layered skirt falling just below the knee. And Catherine has no doubt already placed an order for the pale skirt suit with cable collar and gold fringing at the skirt and jacket hem - albeit sans lace headdress. But even the more out-there creations had a regal feel to them, with capes draped over shoulders and metallic feather embellishment scattered across breastbones like the most beautiful armour.   And while we can't imagine Kate would wear anything so risqué, they are sure to prove resounding hits on the red carpet. The collection, predictably, was a hit with those present. Salma Hayek said: 'What you saw tonight, the brilliance behind the fantasy and the beauty of the show has nothing to do with [the Royal Wedding dress]. 'I think she's already moved on from that. It's gone somewhere else. It was very unexpected. It was amazing.' Ken Downing, fashion director for U.S. department store Neiman Marcus added: 'I do believe there's a little less of an angst when I see this collection. 'I think because it's in the hands of a woman, we see a little more of a feminine spirit.'